Peumayen, Flavors with a Hot Spring Touch

Magic starts as soon as the small wooden bridge over the Liucura River is crossed after leaving behind the road that joins Pucón and Huife. Peumayen Hot Springs and Lodge raise amidst the native forest of Lefincul Valley and they offer more than just beneficial waters. They also represent an approach to contrasting gastronomy which combines the high French School and the wise cooking of southern Chile. We entered the venue and parked the car in the shade. Little by little, we discovered each of the facilities scattered around in harmony inside a neat lawn. The main thermal space is made up by a large screened pool that becomes the ideal spot to leave the cold temperatures of the winter outside, enjoy the warm energizing waters and rest on the armchairs for a while. We visited Peumayen in the spring. Everything was in bloom, coming back to life after the winter time. We resorted to the pool area on the Liucura River shore, where temperature ranges between 32 and 39 degrees Celsius. The sulfur waters also contain calcium and sodium. They gave us a beautiful feeling of plenitude we saved in our bodies while we rested by the river.

Lunch was a main ingredient during our visit. We knew beforehand that we would find a different kind of gastronomy, caring for regional flavors with touches of high French cuisine. Chef Michel Moutrousteguy himself offered us a very interesting chat about how he applied his knowledge on a menu that commemorates traditional Mapuche recipes. In spite of his youth, Michel has a vast gastronomic career. He owns the business and he has bet on the challenge of providing a superior level to each dish. “The cook must be the owner of the business if he wishes the ingredients of his plates to be high quality”, were his words. He has his own orchard with fresh season products. That is how he manages a special creation for each customer. Bearing in mind that idea, he has imposed a style. He has chosen to be faithful to his family Basque-French recipes and at the same time he respects the local culture, defending both. The presence of merken, miñaqui potato, quinoa, pine nuts or murta give evidence of the mixture of flavors of peoples who know about cooking. Sitting at the table for lunch, we allowed Michel to surprise us with his mastery. As we waited, we were entertained with some penny royal lemon juice and home-baked bread spread with butter in aromatic herbs. The starter was rolled pork stuffed with venison and berries, served with rhubarb compote . It was soft and fresh to our palates. The main course was a so-called plateada: lamb shank and shoulder slowly cooked, accompanied by artichokes, radish and asparagus and arugula flowers. All ingredients were extremely fresh, just torn from the plant. Dessert was made up by a selection of ice-cream flavors, including black mint, fennel and strawberry. All this was crowned with a Celestine crepe filled with milk jam. It was delicious, homemade, harmonious and beautiful. In addition to the quietness we had obtained from the hot spring waters, we also treasured a relaxed conversation with the chef, the friendly atmosphere of the venue and a meal without haste, enjoying every bite. The balance people search when the body demands wellbeing and good eating.