The Spirit of the Glaciers

When a discerning traveler thinks of Argentinian Patagonia, the idea of experiencing one of the most extraordinary natural geographical phenomena immediately comes to mind: Los Glaciares National Park. We went to El Calafate with the sole intent of going on a three day luxurious cruise, sailing really close to the huge walls of ice. We boarded at Punta Bandera, at La Soledad port on Lake Argentino after a short bus ride from the city center. As the Santa Cruz cruised slowly and silently, leaving the coast behind, we discovered its cozy, welcoming rooms but opted for the deck where we introduced ourselves to our travelling companions.

Red Sunsets

As day gradually gave way to night, we got ready to have dinner in the dining-room. Watching the sunset and its incredible array of colors through the huge picture windows took our breath away. After a good night’s sleep in the calm water of Spegazzini Bay, our second day began with a delicious breakfast. The silence was only broken by the sound of early birds until the engine started up to head towards Puesto de Vacas, where we would go for a short walk on the verdant mountain slopes. Our guides pointed out places of interest from different vantage points and we had our first view of the Spegazzini Glacier, our next stop. We sailed among some ice floes until finally this enormous field of ice stretched out before our eyes. We were in awe of the different hues of blue in the walls of ice over 100 meters high in places, and the contrasting vegetation. The Santa Cruz engines were turned off and we got ready for our gourmet lunch in that unbelievable scenery. We then sailed along the channel towards the Upsala Glacier, aware that an ice barrier blocked access to its main wall. However, we were delighted to see floes and small icebergs around the boat and admired their odd shapes and varied colors. That evening we reached Toro bay in Mayo branch. We were treated to a delicious dinner and then went to the bar and lounges, where we shared our experiences and photographs with our fellow travelers while bright stars shone in the night sky above. We awoke the third day to see beautiful native forests go by the cabin window as we headed to the Mayo and the Negro Glaciers. After breakfast, we sailed up De los Témpanos Channel to get nearer to the highlight of the trip: the Perito Moreno Glacier. We could not help feeling moved by its magnificence and the unsurpassed spectacle of huge pieces of ice falling off its high walls. Having yet another delicious lunch with the glacier as background is indescribable. Our conversations with the crew, who helped us better understand the formation of these frozen masses enhanced a unique experience. We felt really privileged.

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